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Changing the Shift Boot
Are you bored with the stock shifter boot? Here how's you would remove the stock boot and replace with a leather boot.

Compliments of myFordFocus.com Forum Member: aussie

Tools required:

• A sharp knife
• Pair of side cutters (wire snips)
• Pair of long nose pliers
• A rag
• Some sandpaper or a file
• A strong zip tie

1. Unscrew the shift knob by turning it in a counter-clockwise direction. It might take some effort to get it to move initially but it will come free.
2. Remove the reverse lock-out spring and it's nylon lower sleeve by simply lifting it out.
3. Using your fingers lift up the rear of the shift boot retention "ring". It's held in place by two clips at the front and one at the rear. The rear clip is designed to come free if you push the middle of the rear of the "ring" forward as you lift it up.
4. With the shift boot "ring" free the shift boot and the entire reverse lock-out mechanism will slide up over the shifter shaft. There is a fair amount of grease on the bottom of the mechanism so be aware that you will need the rag to avoid getting this on your hands and the interior trim.
5. The stock shift boot is attached to the "ring" by a number of staples. Use the side cutter to cut the staples and the long nose pliers to pull the remains from the "ring". Be careful with the stock boot when you do this. It is very thin material and when you eventually get rid of the car you may want to take your new boot with you and reinstall the stocker.
6. With the "ring" removed pull the boot inside out to reveal the zip tie that attaches the top of the boot to the reverse lock-out knob. Cut this with the side cutters and remove the boot. Use this time to familiarise yourself with how the reverse lock-out works and will fit back onto the shifter shaft when you're ready to re-install it. It will only go back on one way and it's pretty obvious what way that is.
7. Now the fun begins - Take your new shift boot and turn it inside out.
8. If the new boot uses a lace, that must be tightened to attach the top of the boot to the reverse lock-out knob. Tie it as tight as you can. If you need someone to put a finger on the knot do it rather than thinking that a little loose will be okay. This knot must be very tight! If you wish you can use a zip tie as the stock boot did but it must be threaded through the loop in the new boot just as the stock boot and as the lace on your new boot were.
9. Now pull the boot right side out. Again be careful with the reverse lock-out mechanism so you don't get grease on your hands and the interior trim of the car or the outside of the new boot.
10. Most replacement shift boots are made up of 3 or 4 pieces sewn together and the seams will allow you to line the boot up neatly on the "ring". This is where we are now. Start at the front of the "ring" - the curved end or "bow of the ship"!
11. Most replacement boots also have an elastic hem that needs to be pulled below the lower edge of the "ring". If you don't there's no way the boot and it's mounting "ring" can seat properly, there's simply not enough room. Just about every replacement boot out there is thicker than the stock piece of crap so be aware of that.
12. You can choose to staple the boot in place to the "ring" as the factory did with the stocker but there's a lot of holes in that plastic now so I didn't. The elastic on my Matrix boot was pretty tight and I doubt it'll come free.
13. There are three holes you have to cut in your brand new shift boot for the clips of the "ring" to protrude through. Take your very sharp knife and carefully cut along the top of the clips where their ends can be seen pushing on the boot. Push the boot material down over these clips as far and as tight as you can. You need these clips to engage properly or the whole boot assembly will lift up from the console.
14. Nearly there! Replace the boot and reverse lock-out mechanism on the shift shaft.
15. Replace the lock-out spring and sleeve.
16. Replace the shift knob. Be very carefull you don't cross-thread the plastic knob on the steel shaft. If you're going to use an aftermarket shift knob now's the time to do it. Most won't allow the use of the reverse lock-out mechanism so make yourself aware of how and where the top of shift boot is to be attached to the new knob. Go back to step 8 and attach that boot.
17. Carefully insert the front of the shift boot "ring" into the console. Seat it firmly towards the front of the console and then, pushing in on the sides of the "ring" and boot, slide the sides into the console carefully so you don't lift the boot away from the "ring" as it goes in. Now, while pushing in the rear of the "ring" in the middle near that rearmost clip, push down and seat the boot and "ring". You may have to really give this a lot of pressure to get it to "click!" into place. If you don't hear it "click!" it's probably not seated. Does it fit? Does it sit flat and with the rear clip engaged? If it does go to step 20. If not read on.
18. The darn thing sits up at the back and won't sit flat! Pull the boot and ring back up and get out the sandpaper or file. Carefully trim the inside of the shift boot opening in the console. You may need to go all around the opening and not just at the back to give the new boot a little more clearance. Be careful and take your time. Never remove more than just enough for a tight fit.
19. Repeat step 17 and 18 until all is well.
20. Apply a good leather conditioner to soften and protect your new leather shift boot! Dubbin is great but Mothers and Meguires make good products as well. I like to buy leather treatments at saddleries or outfitters because the stuff they sell is intended for some of the nastiest conditions out there.