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JBA Short Header
Compliments of myFordFocus.com Forum Member: 20/20
Benefits:
The JBA is a stainless steel ceramic-coated tube header that is nicely manufactured and allows the exhaust gases to more easily exit from the engine head. The OEM header is more restrictive due to the size of the header tubes and constrictions at the header collector. The appearance of the JBA header greatly improves the looks of the engine bay.
Time to Complete: 3-4 hours
NOTE: This is not an easy install due to tight working space associated with the JBA header flange bolts to engine head install and requires access under car to remove CAT and CAT pipe (e.g. ‘CAT assembly’). If you are not mechanically inclined, do not have access to a lift or (2) 3+ ton rated floor jacks and (2) 3 ton rated floor jack stands do not attempt install.
Tools Required:
Installing the JBA header requires that you have a fairly decent collection of tools (in addition to the ones noted below).
- Assortment of socket wrenches, extenders, U joints, and standard and deed throw sockets
- 5/16", 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, and 15mm sockets
- 5/16", 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, and 15mm closed wrenches
- 5mm 6 pt socket or a T30 Torx socket
- 1" open end wrench or 250mm adjustable wrench
- 3M ‘Final Stripping Pad (part # 10113)
- anti-seize compound for bolts
- WD40 or bolt release penetrating oil
Instructions:
The JBA exhaust header comes with all necessary parts (header, head flange gasket, SS bolts and washers, and collector gasket) needed for the header installation. Generally, the instructions are clear and complete with the exception of noting the need to loosen the CAT bracket holder from the engine and loosen the exhaust to CAT pipe bracket from car. Also the instructions note "Installation of these headers requires an adequate work space, general mechanics tools, general mechanical ‘know-how’ and a reasonable degree of experience". Since the JBA header install instructions are reasonably complete (noting the before mentioned caveats) thus I will not repeat, but rather expand on a few points or techniques of the header install process.
 I did not use a car lift so the usage of jacks and jack stands was required. SAFETY is of utmost importance and in this picture I am showing the proper placement for the jacks and stands. You do not need to remove the front wheels to do the header install.Click Image to Enlarge!
 I decided on several deviations for ease of work from the JBA instructions. In this one the instructions note the removal of the OEM header heat shield after several other items removal was done. I removed the heat shield first thing since it blocks the working area. Before removing heat shield release the EGR bracket and power steering line brackets (2 brackets) since you will have to move around these items a bit.Click Image to Enlarge!
 To actually remove the shield once the 4 bolts are released it takes a little wiggling and pulling to slip it off.
Click Image to Enlarge!
 With the shield off you can see more of the working area and makes it easier to do the work from under the engine bay.Click Image to Enlarge!
 First step to removing header is to remove the CAT assembly. Not difficult and requires disconnecting the EGR tube (the 1" nut holding pipe to header is VERY tight)(requires 1" open ended wrench or a 250mm adjustable wrench) and unplugging the upper and lower O2 sensors (not removing sensors just unplugging). Remove the (2) 15mm nuts holding CAT assembly to exhaust pipe and also (this is my addition to the instructions) for ease of disconnecting pipes loosen the CAT assembly-to-exhaust pipe bracket .Click Image to Enlarge!
 Now remove (2) 13mm nuts of CAT bracket band and (this is my addition to the instructions) remove nuts holding bracket to engine. Remove (3) 15mm nuts (accessed from topside of engine bay) holding header to CAT assembly.
Click Image to Enlarge!
NOTE: if you are working by yourself, place several towels under CAT so if it drops quickly as you remove the (3) 15mm header to CAT nuts the CAT won’t bang on the floor. Of course, having two people do this job is better.
- Once the CAT assembly has been removed you can remove the OEM header. There are (3) 13mm nuts and (6) 10mm bolts holding on the header to the engine head and several are in very awkward locations requiring various wrenches, socket extenders and U-joints. Many of the header nuts are accessible from underneath the engine. Once header is removed (does require a bit of wiggling out of a tight space) there are (3) studs that need to be removed using the 5mm 6 pt socket or a T30 Torx socket.
 Clean surface of head where OEM header gasket was located with the 3M Finishing Pad.Click Image to Enlarge!
- Now install JBA header with provided header flange gasket and (9) 13mm SS nuts/washers. BE PATIENT! Again awkward positioning of the bolts to the header tubing makes this the most difficult part of the install. All the bolts should hand tighten in initially and you must avoid ‘cross threading’ the SS bolts into the aluminum head. Follow toque specs included in JBA instructions(23 ft/lbs).
 Reversing CAT assembly removal instructions, reinstall CAT assembly and related brackets.Click Image to Enlarge!
The JBA exhaust header is now installed and they look great and (my ‘seat of the pants’ dyno) add to the entire engine rpm range of more torque and hp. I will be dyno testing my car set up (DiabloSport chip, AEM CAI, JBA header, Borla exhaust and performance spark plugs/spark plug wires) to see exactly what is happening in the power gained category.
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