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This myFordFocus.com IceMan Cool Air System how-to project is sponsored by Knight Engineering, makers of the IceMan Cool Air System. Knight Engineering contributed the IceMan Cool Air System for the myFordFocus.com project car and how-to video series. Also in the photo, is the Focus Central 65mm throttle body, we actually installed the IceMan and the 65mm throttle body at the same time. Obviously your IceMan does not come with the throttle body! :)

Other than replacing the stock air filter itself, removing the stock air ducts and replacing them with the IceMan cool air system is probably one of the easiest performance modifications you can do. Requiring only a flathead and phillips screwdriver to remove the stock air box top and air duct tubes, and a 10mm and 13mm socket or wrench to remove the battery cables and battery box. However, because of all the parts that have to come off and put back on, it is not a quick 15 minute job, more like 45 minutes to an hour. As always, take your time and be patient!

Kit Parts: Upper air duct, lower air duct, snorkle air tube, 3 rubber sleeves, 4 clamps, hi-flo filter, optional mini-duct attachment.

Tools required: Flathead screwdriver, 10mm socket, 13mm socket.

Time to complete: 3/4 to 1 hour.

Cost: Approx. $200(cost of the IceMan kit) Available at myFordPerformance.com

IceMan Included Instruction Sheet: Click Here

Battery Box

Stock Air Box

Stock Snorkle and Lower Duct

Stock Air Duct/Box Removal:

1. Remove the battery box top, simply pops off.
2. Disconnect your battery using the 10mm socket.
3. Remove the battery tie-down strap using the 10mm socket that screws into the bottom of the box.
4. Remove the battery from the car.
5. Remove the various wire harnesses that are attached to the side of the battery box. The pop out back through the walls of the box with stern push with your screw driver or something similar.
6. Using the 13mm socket, unbolt the battery box bolts and remove the box.
7. Using your screwdriver, remove the clamps that hold the upper air duct to the throttle body and MAF.
8. Using your screwdriver, unscrew the air box top.
9. Set the air box top and MAF(no need to remove) aside.
10. Discard your stock air filter, if your IceMan came with a new hi-flo filter.....
11. Disconnect the PCV tube.
12. Remove the air box bottom. Give it a good pull, it is only attached using rubber grommets.
13. With the battery box and air box removed, you now have access to the lower air ducts.
14. Using the phillips screwdriver, remove plastic screws in the the stock snorkle duct, then remove the snorkle and lower air ducts.
15. You are now ready to install the IceMan

IceMan Installation:

1. Attach the IceMan snorkle and lower tube using the 1 3/4" rubber sleeve and two clamps.
2. Note: Do not completely tighten the sleeve at this point, you want to make a small adjustment to fit the length from the fender to the frame where the lower duct attaches.
3. With the two pieces loosely together, attach the snorkle to the fender using the stock plastic screws, and the lower duct to the frame. Adjust length at the rubber sleeve as needed.
4. Note: Those plastics screws that hold the snorkle tube to the front fender area are really cheap, it might be a good idea to get some new/better ones from an auto parts store.
5. Tighten the clamps on the sleeve that attaches to the snorkle and lower duct.
6. With the new snorkle and lower duct in place, snap the air box bottom back in place.
7. Install your new hi-flo filter.
8. Re-connect the PCV tube.
9. Re-install the stock air box top and secure.
10. Install the remaining rubber sleeves on the new upper air duct and loosely tighten the clamps.
11. Note: You will be using the two stock clamps as well.
12. Install the new upper air duct with sleeves attached to the throttle body and MAF. Loosely secure the clamps.
13. Make any ajustements to the length with the rubber sleeves.
14. Tighten down all rubber sleeve clamps.
15. Install the optional IceMan Mini-Duct to the side of the stock air box where the resonator/silencer was.
16. Check all your connections.
17. Re-install the battery box.
18. Re-attach the various wire harnesses that were attached to the side of the battery box.
19. Re-install the battery and secure.
20. Re-connect your battery terminals.
21. Start your car.
22. Let your car idle.
23. Drive your car as normal, and occasionally at WOT "wide open throttle". Your car's computer will make adjustments for the additional air that your car is getting.
24. Have Fun!!

Specifically:

1. The kit comes with 4 new clamps, so you have to re-use the two existing stock clamps. One at the base of the top tube where it's rubber sleeve connects to the throttle body, and the other where the top tube's sleeve connect to the MAF tubing.
2. The clamps for the connecting the lower tube and the snorkle tube under the battery box are larger than required and when tightened have alot of excess metal hanging around.
3. The "rubber bumper" that holds the lower tube coming into the bottom of the air box, is not the same size, shape or diameter of the stock bumper, nor is it really long enough to securely hold the bottom tube in place. The tube will still stay in place however, as it slides up into the air box like the stock unit.
4. The rubber sleeve that connects the top tube to the MAF is larger than the MAF tubing, and is not a perfect fit. Take care in making sure the clamp used here is nice and tight.
5. Because the IceMan is a thicker plastic than the stock plastic, the mounting screws that hold the stock snorkle to the fender shroud are simply not long enough to hold the IceMan snorkle in place. I'm not much of a fan of those cheap plastic retaining screws anyway, you'll have to get some longer replacements at a local auto parts store.
6. My kit came with one of the new "early release" add-on tubes, that go on the side of the air box where the resonator/silencer would normally be. As reported, it simply does not stay on and it pretty much useless. Also, the front of this add-on tube, the area that goes under the headlight, has some sharp edges in it, and might interfere with the wiring harnesses in that area. Use caution here! I modified mine so it would not have the sharp point on it.

Specifically:

1. Those darn mounting screws that hold the snorkle to the fender shroud, even the larger ones I picked up at Autozone won't to stay in place, at least not securely. I think I going to go with metal ones eventually.
2. The rubber sleeve that connects the top tube to the MAF tube has come loose on me a couple times, not off, just loose. It might just be the clamps vibrate loose, but I did notice if I push the air box toward the center of the engine bay, just enough to make the sleeve cover more area on the tubes and then tighten the clamps, it's more secure. This is definetly not an area you want to have an air leak, because it's "after" the air filter. Watch it carefully!
3. The "early" release add-on tube that replaces the resonator/silencer consistently does not stay on. I have even shaved the inside of the tube that fits on the box, cut an the area on the box mount that restricts the tube from fitting all the way on. Still, if comes off just from vibration. There needs to be something to hold the add-on tube in place. I hope to have one of the new designs soon.