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Focus Central 65mm Throttle Body

Removing the stock throttle is a fairly straight forward modification, but as with many projects there are a few things to watch out for. First, always be sure your replacement system came with all the proper parts. In this case, the thottle body of course, a new gasket, and mounting hardware. Finally, be patient!

Kit Parts: The throttle body, gasket, throttle cable mounting bracket, mounting bracket screws, throttle position sensor screws.

Tools required: Flathead screwdriver, #25 torx bit, #30 torx bit, 10mm socket or wrench.

Time to complete: 1/2 to 1 hour

Instructions:

1. Disconnect your battery using the 10mm socket.
2. Loosen the clamps that secure the upper air duct tube from the air box to the throttle body. 1
3. Note: Cover the exposed throttle body opening with a lint free cloth to prevent anything from falling in.
4. Remove the 4 screws that secure the throttle body to the intake, using the #30 torx bit. 2
5. Note: With the throttle body removed, cover the exposed intake opening with a lint free cloth to prevent anything from falling in.
6. Remove the throttle position sensor using the #25 torx bit. 3
7. Remove the throttle cable. 4
8. Remove the cruise control cable(if applicable). 5 & 6
9. Install the new throttle body in the reverse order that you just used to remove the stock throttle body.
   • Caution: Be careful not to cross-thread the screws into the "plastic" intake manifold!
   • Note: The order in which you remove/install the cables and position sensor is up to you, I found it easier to have the throttle body off the intake, to handle the cables and position sensor more easily.
10. Reconnect your car battery.
11. Let your car idle.
12. Listen for any possible leaks.
13. Drive your car as normal, and occasionally at WOT "wide open throttle". Your car's computer will make adjustments for the additional air that your car is getting.
14. Have Fun!!

	Installed View

Specifically:

1. The stock Ford intake manifold is plastic and the screws that hold the throttle body onto the manifold are of course metal. Two things concern me about this.
   1. Cross-threading: Be very careful not to cross-thread the screws when putting on the new Focus Central throttle body. When you are starting the screw, be sure it "feels" right before you start to tighten it down all the way.
   2. Multiple R&Rs: If for some reason you have to take the Focus Central throttle body off, and put the stock throttle body back on, and then off again to put the Focus Central throttle back on, personally I would be concerned about the "threading" on the intake manifold holding up to the task.
   
   
2. Expectations.... Two car enthusiast magazine, Sport Compact Car, and Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords, have also added 65mm throttle bodies to their project cars. The net gain in peek horsepower, was only 1-2 hp. myFordFocus.com did not run a dyno test on this modification, but did use the G-Tech Pro to compare before and after 0-60, and 1/4 mile times and speeds. Both of which showed only modest gains. The 65mm throttle body in and of itself, that is.... without other performance modifications, is not going to dramatically increase your car's horsepower. If you are doing this mod, you should also be considering a CAI mod, cat-back exhaust mod, maybe even headers and a host of other mods to increase the car's total performance.

3. Idle:
   Dec 2002 Update:

   If after you install the t/b, your car is idling higher than stock(800-900rpms), you may need have your TPS "throttle position sensor" mounted in the wrong holes. There are 3 different mounting configurations for the TPS depending on the year of your Focus and wether or not it's an automatic or 5 speed. See the image, and refer to the instructions that Focus Central includes with the t/b.

   Click Image to Enlarge!

(March 2002) After reinstalling the throttle body with the new TPS mounting holes for the automatic, and a week or two of driving I started to notice what felt like the gas pedal was sticking and was requiring me to "pop" the pedal. After that initial pop everything was smooth, but anytime there was no pressure and the pedal and the car was essentially at idle, that first press of the pedal had to be another pop to get by the stickiness. As it turns out, and after seeing some other people experiencing that sticky feeling, I decided to take a look around under the hood. What I found out was that the idle screw on the throttle body was completely "backed off" and not making contact with the "hammer" on the throttle body linkage. I could easily place a piece of paper between the two. Just moving the linkage by hand I could feel the stickiness in the linkage. I adjusted the idle screw out until it made contact with the linkage hammer(see picture) and then advanced it another 1/4 turn to push the linkage just enough to open the throttle a very tiny amount. After doing that, no more sticky pedal or throttle.